Greyhound Blog Home       Greyhound Betting System

posted by admin on Dec 3

A lot of people can only get to the track on weekends, because they work during the week. Maybe they don’t want to go on weeknights, because they have to get up early the next morning. So they go on Friday night, Saturday afternoon or Saturday night. Maybe, Sunday.

Then there are people who go to the track on weekdays. Maybe they’re retirees or night workers. Maybe they work on weekends. They have a different track experience than the people who go on weekends. The track is generally quieter and less crowded during the weekday performances. There aren’t usually stakes or special races, because they’re held on weekends to attract a bigger crowd.

There’s another difference between going to the track on weekends and going during the week. I think it’s harder to make money during the week, and I’ll tell you why. It’s not because of the quality of the races, although there may be better races on the weekend when the bigger crowds come out. It’s not because the track rigs the races during the week to let the “insiders” make money, as many people think. In my opinion, it’s harder to make money at the dog track during the week because of the other bettors.

After all, pari-mutuel betting means that you’re betting against the other people at the track. That doesn’t change, no matter how many or how few people are there. However, I think that there’s a much smarter crowd betting on the greyhounds during the week, than there is on weekends.

The weekend crowd tends to be people who go to the track mostly for entertainment. Friday night is date night and you see a lot of couples out for dinner and a good time. They have a nice meal, bet their favorite numbers and maybe have a little luck. Then there are the casual bettors who only come to the track on Friday and Saturday and don’t pay much attention to the dogs the rest of the week.

They have no clue what’s going on beyond what they read in the program. This makes it easier for someone, like yourself, who does their research and has a good handicapping method, to out-handicap them and win their money. Unlike the people who are serious about winning at the dog track, the casual weekend bettor doesn’t usually have a good plan. They just quickly pick a dog or rely on a friend’s judgment or what the tip sheet says.

During the week, on the other hand, you’ll find that more of the bettors have done their homework, researched the dogs and are ready to bet wisely. This is why you might notice that you don’t make as much money when you go to the track on a Wednesday afternoon, as you do when you go on Friday night. You’re betting against bettors with more experience, self-control and information on weekdays.

Of course, no matter when you go to the dog track, there are always people who are serious about handicapping. This is why you need to do your homework before you go and give yourself every advantage that you can against the crowd, whether they’re weekend bettors or the smart-money bettors who go during the week. But if you want to give yourself an edge, go on the weekends.

Before you go to the dog track, find out why smart handicappers are checking out the free articles, tips and Winning Greyhound Systems at http://ebnetr.com

posted by admin on Dec 1

Dog flu is an anti-viral viral infection of the upper-lower respiratory and digestive system that gives your canine companion runny stools. It was first diagnosed recently in Greyhounds at a number of racetracks in approximately eleven states, beginning with Florida. It isn’t contagious to humans, and it’s not as bad for dogs as you might think. It is a fairly new disease and is said to affect almost all canine when they come in contact with the said virus. This illness is not as serious as rabies and other disease which affects dogs. But care should be taken

Symptoms

Symptoms include a low-grade fever, nasal discharge, and a persistent cough that could last up to three weeks. Symptoms include a high fever, increased respiratory rates with difficulty breathing, and other indications of pneumonia. Symptoms generally appear two to five days after a dog is exposed to the virus. Symptoms are often mistaken for kennel cough a common canine illness.

Dog flu actually comes from Asia but is not related to the avian flu. It has become a major dog illness and this due to the relatively new emergence of the virus, there is no vaccine for it leading to 80% of dogs that come in contact with an infected animal also contracting the virus. It is a new, highly contagious and potentially deadly virus that causes respiratory infection only among dogs. It is not easy to diagnose because early symptoms mimic another common canine condition called kennel cough. You can treat dog flu with the proper treatment so for more on the treatment and management visit the website below.

For more information visit my lens at http://www.squidoo.com/Dog_Illlnesses

posted by admin on Nov 28

To win at the dog track, you have to be better than the average bettor. Because pari-mutuel betting is betting against the other bettors, not the track, it’s the guy or gal next to you that you have to beat, not the announcer or the track owner or managers. (Unless they’re betting too, which shouldn’t be allowed, but that’s another article.)

Obviously, most of the crowd is wrong most of the time. I think I read somewhere once that bettors pick the winner about 1 out of 4 times. Since the favorite doesn’t pay very well, that wouldn’t give you a profit, that’s for sure. So if you want to win money at the dog track, you’re going to have to think and bet differently from how the crowd thinks and bets.

A lot of people in the crowd play numbers – the 1/2 quiniela, their kids’ birthdates, their house number or their car’s plate number. This is not handicapping. This is like playing the lottery, which is probably what they should do with their numbers, if they really have to bet on them.

Another segment of the crowd plays the numbers at the bottom of the program. These predictions come from the track’s designated handicapper, who may or may not have a clue as to who’s likely to come in. Depending on someone else to pick dogs for you, especially when the picks are shared with everyone else at the track, isn’t handicapping. It’s a lazy way to lose money. Same thing with getting tips from friends, trainers and anyone else who tells you about a sure thing or some set-up that they heard is happening in a race.

Einstein, who was certainly smart enough to win at the track although I don’t know if he ever went, said this: Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result. That’s what most of the crowd is doing when they try to win money at races. If you want to beat them, you have to figure out something different.

Handicap your program. Keep records. Pay attention to Class, Consistency and Competition when you pick dogs to bet. Don’t look at the toteboard when you make your bets, because the toteboard only tells you what the crowd thinks the odds should be. It doesn’t tell you what the odds should really be, based on sound handicapping.

If you’re not winning at the dog track, find helpful articles and greyhound handicapping information at Winning at the Dog Track with Eb. From Florida to New Hampshire and all the tracks in between, Eb knows greyhounds. Find out how to win at the dog track at Eb’s.

posted by admin on Nov 28

Canine influenza is a fairly recent addition to the list of things we have to worry about when it comes to our dogs. Although the widespread epidemic of suggested by the media does not exist, it is certainly a disease that is spreading and that we should be aware of if we live or work with dogs.

It was discovered in Florida during research into the causes of kennel cough amongst greyhounds, and is thought to be a variation of horse influenza. It is an airborne disease and is most likely to be found where many dogs are housed in close proximity to each other. Roughly 16% of dogs who are exposed to the disease develop symptoms, and of these cases, about 6% prove fatal.

The symptoms of canine influenza are a high fever, coughing and sneezing, a runny nose, excessive lethargy or depression and a lack of appetite. Of course, many other illnesses are characterised by coughing and sneezing so you shouldn’t immediately assume your dog has influenza, but if you are concerned you should consult your veterinarian, particularly of your dog’s temperature reaches 106 degrees.

Canine influenza is a virus and therefore does not respond to antibiotics. In severe cases, the damage to the respiratory system leads to a secondary pneumonia infection, and it is this that usually causes deaths. Pneumonia is treatable with antibiotics and a high fluid intake, so the number of fatal cases of influenza can be reduced. Research into a vaccine for canine influenza is currently in progress, but it may not be available for another couple of years.

If you are planning on leaving your dog in kennels you should check their policy on respiratory infections. Ask whether they isolate any dog that develops an infection, whether it is influenza or something less harmful such as kennel cough. Also make sure that they will inform you if your dog has come into contact with another dog with a respiratory infection.

A recent case in Pittsburgh saw the high quality boarding facility, Misty Pines, temporarily closed because thirty of their dogs developed canine influenza. None of the dogs died and the facility was reopened once the infection had run its course. Canine influenza is only infectious for ten days and has an incubation period of two to five days so it is perfectly safe for dogs to board there again now the infection has gone.

Although the infection is more common in places where dogs are grouped together, you shouldn’t let this put you off buying a dog from a shelter. You will, however, want to check the shelter’s policy on new arrivals. Do they isolate them for the first few days to ensure they don’t have the infection? If you already have a dog at home, you may want to keep your new pet separate from them for a few days just to be on the safe side.

Canine influenza does not pose any risk to humans as they cannot become infected. However it is believed that humans can carry the virus on their hands, clothes and shoes so you should be aware of this. In some cases it is believed that employees of dog shelters or kennels have transmitted the virus to their own dogs in this way.

Although canine influenza is clearly an issue that you should be aware of, and take precautions against, you should not let it stop your dog from living life as usual. And you should not stop using your usual pet facilities. If you want to find out about any outbreaks of the virus in your area contact your local veterinarian or the state veterinary medical association, who will be able to give you local information and some peace of mind.

Oftentimes our dogs don’t have anything as serious as canine influenza. Learn more about symptoms like coughing, snoring and voice changing here. More dog articles are here.

posted by admin on Nov 27

Exercise for your dog is an essential part of their every day life. If your dog doesn’t exercise how is it going to keep fit and healthy? Oh, and let’s blow this particular myth away, large dogs do not need more exercise than small dogs. What you should consider when determining how much exercise your dog actually needs is to consider what your dog was originally bred for. This will help to give you some kind of indication as to the type and amount of exercise your dog really needs.
Let’s think about it for a minute. Would a dog breed that is built for sprinting get more benefit from a long walk on a lead or two walks off the lead that allow the dog to open its legs and run?
Here are a few examples for you to consider:

• Greyhounds are sprinters – long lead or short runs?

• Terriers are bred to sniff out vermin – on lead or off lead?

• Retrievers are bred to retrieve – on lead or exercise through fetch games?

How did you do? I hope you said off lead for all of them because they cannot function like their breeding tells them to unless they have the freedom to run, sniff or chase.

Remember, human walking speed is too slow for dogs, it’s not a natural pace to them.
Your dog will benefit far more by being allowed to run free off the lead in a safe environment than they ever will from a long walk on a lead whether that’s on grass or on a pavement.

Even though being off the lead is better for your dog you must ensure your dog is trained enough so as to always come back to you when called. If your dog won’t come to you then always keep them on a lead for safety.

There are also certain breeds that need mental stimulation as well as physical exercise.
If you have an active dog you should consider mental activity like agility or obedience classes. This should help keep your dog stimulated and prevent it becoming overweight, disinterested or a problem dog.

All dogs exercise requirements will vary because of their breed and size.
Also, your dogs exercise requirements will change due to age.

Let’s take a look at that particular aspect.

Whilst a puppy your dog needs controlled exercise which will keep them occupied and help build strong muscles. But, if you make them twist and turn suddenly through exercise that is too hard you will injure your puppy as their joints are still developing and their bones are soft. You particularly have to be mindful of this with large breeds.

Make sure you factor in plenty of sleeping time for your puppy between exercise periods.

As your dog gets older and moves towards becoming a healthy adult build up their exercise tolerance gradually, although you may find that they determine their own exercise needs part of the time.

As your dog progresses into old age they still enjoy their exercise even if they cannot manage as much as they used to. If you want to keep your dog as mobile and fit as possible in their later years give them gentle exercise through regular short walks.

Some of us have two dogs and usually one is a young dog that we got as company for our older dog and this can sometimes lead to pitfalls in our dog exercise routine. Although it is nice for our older dog to have company whilst having their exercise you have to ensure that the younger dog has had sufficient exercise and this may mean exercising the two dogs at different times.

By giving your dog the right exercise you are giving them every chance to lead a healthy and active life.

Rosie Harvey runs a site on dog training and dog care. This site provides tips, advice, reviews, products and information all about training and taking care of your dog. http://www.dogtraininginformation.wordpress.com

posted by admin on Nov 25

Originally called the Doberman Pinscher, the Doberman breed was created from several breeds by a German, Karl Louis Dobermann in around 1890. Dobermann was a Tax collector, night watchman and dog catcher and needed a protection dog to guard him as he travelled around the dangerous bandit-infested areas around Thueringen, South Central Germany. He spent 60 years perfecting the ultimate loyal, intelligent, ferocious protection dog before the first Doberman was registered in 1893. Many breeds are thought to have been used in the creation on the Doberman including Rottweillers and Great Danes for size and strength, greyhounds for speed and Manchester Terriers for there sleek coat. Other breeds that are thought to have been used are the German Shepherd Dog, the Pinscher, the Beauceron, the Thuringian Shepherd Dog, the Weimaraner and the German Shorthaired Pointer.

Dobermann died shortly after the first registration of the Doberman breed and Otto Goeller and Philip Gruening took up cultivation of the breed in Germany.

During World war one the Doberman suffered along with the rest of the country and the few remaining dogs were going to be put down as no one could afford to keep them. They were saved however by American servicemen who grew fond of them and took them home, thus initiating the American breeding program. During World War II Dobermans were used by the US Marines to flush out the enemy which gave them the name ‘Devil Dogs’. 25 Dobermans died in the Battle of Guam in 1944 and there is a memorial in Guam in honour of these dogs.

After the war the Doberman breed became known in England and a Doberman club formed in 1948. A couple called the Curnows, using the kennel name of Tavey, dedicated themselves to establishing the Doberman in England. They began with European stock but then decided that the American Doberman was more elegant and larger and started their breeding program again.

Doberman can have a fiery temper and can become excitable but they are intelligent and bond very closely with owners and family. Those training a Doberman need to teach plenty of socialisation skills and training from an early age. A well-bred Dobie trained by an experienced handler is an excellent pets and companion and is suitable for families with other dog breeds and children.

The most common colour for a Doberman is black but there are two different colour genes. The first is Black and the second is a colour dilution gene which provides four different colours, black, red, blue and fawn. This means that there are various colour of Doberman depending on how the genes are mixed.

In 1976 a white Doberman bitch was born and was subsequently bred to her son, continued tight breeding meant that the mutation became fixed and has now become widely marketed. These albino Doberman though have increased risk of disease and abnormal development of the retina so must avoid too much sun exposure. These problems have made the albino breed unpopular as many people perceive this breeding of a mutant dog to be cruelty.

Traditionally Doberman have they tails and ears cropped. The ears cropped for reasons related to traditional guard duty and effective sound localisation. This is normally done between 7 and 9 weeks of age but some owner do not have this procedure done as it is painful for the dog. The process involved trimming off part of the ear and propping up with posts, tape and bandages with encourages the cartilage to grow in an upright position.

Steve Batchelor is a dog lover and the webmaster at http://www.dogbreedguides.com where you can find some great information on many different dog breeds. He also recommends petinfogoldmine for more info on dog training, obedience, health care and many other subjects.

posted by admin on Nov 24

Hunting dogs need to be given a healthy diet so they don’t become overweight because they have to be in good shape to hunt. Greyhounds need particular care with their diet because they’ll become bloated if they eat large amounts of food at a time. They should be feed three small meals every day. Some owners of hunting dogs recommend the Pro Balanced Formula for the best nutrition for your hunting dog. They say that the high protein it contains give the extra energy a working dog has to have.

These working dogs definitely need special care and attention. Remember that they incur more injuries and need their immune system functioning as well as it can. Also, fat and protein will give them the energy they need. Your hunting dog is a friend and a fellow sportsman that depends on you for training, love, and his health needs and he will need your help more as he ages.

Your hunting dog depends on their legs more than the average house breed for running and hunting. As they get older their joints become sore and they do not move as well as they used to. The ideal solution is hip repair by supplement. Glucosamine is the best on the market and senior dog product companies are making chewies, snacks, and dog food that has glucosamine included to help your old dog’s hips and knees. If your dog is picky, buy some glucosamine capsules and pull them apart and sprinkle the powder on their wet food. Stir it in well because most dogs will not eat the food if they smell the powder.

Your senior dog needs special care and attention to make them healthy and happy during their golden years. To learn more about senior dog care and products that can help their longevity and health visit http://seniorcanines.com

posted by admin on Nov 23

There are many factors to be considered in selecting a horse to back, but before that I also consider the factors that will help me eliminate what not to risk my investment bank upon. I thought you might like to ponder a few issues I consider each day.

These are not listed in any particular order, just thoughts as they come to mind while I am writing this email – and with some reference to heaps of great material my Dad has handed me over the years! He has collected a fantastic array of data and general reading on horse racing. If only I could recall all the conversations I have had since they first took me to the races and greyhounds as a kid.

Anyway, here it goes.

DISTANCE

Always pay careful attention to the distance of a race. Horses in general have restricted ranges in this category. Sprinters will find it difficult to win past 1400 meters and stayers won’t get warmed-up until they have passed that distance. Of course, there are the versatile performers who can do well at any distance.

A horse that has not been tried at a certain distance could be said to have handled the journey if it finishes within a few lengths of the winner. Don’t go along with the majority who believe that a horse must have won or placed at the distance to have a decent chance.

TRACK CONDITIONS

Rain affected tracks can cause recent form to look very misleading. Try and keep a record of horses that do well in bad going, and not only those who win or place. Horses that finish within three lengths of the winner could be said to have handled the going, relative to the distance of the race of course.

If a horse performs poorly in rain-affected going and there is no logical reason for the bad run, then the track conditions must be regarded as the cause. You might also like to keep a record of the failures as these will then stay on your banned list for betting on wet tracks in the future.

I will discuss Interference and Class next time. In the meantime, next time you are looking at the form guide, remember one of the greatest of all pieces of advice I ever received when I started out: If you are in doubt, then stay out of the race

Kel Stuart

MBA GDM BCom

http://www.PlaceGetters.com | http://www.PGFreeBeez.com

Australia’s premier horse-racing systems, selections and sports tipping service

AUSTRALIA: Support: (07) 3102-1992 or (07) 3102-6090 Fax: (07) 3102-6213

posted by admin on Nov 22

Greyhound racing is becoming more popular than ever. Should you be interested in starting out in the greyhound racing industry, the best way is to begin with a syndicate.

A syndicate in greyhound racing is an association of three or more persons who commonly own and train greyhounds for the sole purpose of competing them in races. In this way, costs for raising racing greyhounds accumulate in just one pool and is commonly shared by the members of the syndication.

Although raising greyhounds for racing may be costly, it is comparatively cheaper than raising race horses. Nevertheless, shouldering the entire expense for raising race greyhounds can still be costly for one individual only. Joining a syndicate then gives you the enjoyment of greyhound racing without too much personal expenses.

There are no qualifications for membership in a syndicate. It can be organized among co-workers, friends and even your family. Sharing the fun among a number of people can bring many nights of entertainment and socialization. The best part is that you may even win the race and delight yourself on the cash prize.

The first step in beginning the syndicate is to start by collecting funds from a group of people to purchase a greyhound. From the same finances, sourced out are the costs for raising and training said greyhound for racing competitions. Greyhound racing is a very sociable sport since it provides a big opportunity for new acquaintances and for old friends to bond and have fun together.

It is easy to set up a greyhound racing syndicate. Assistance is available everywhere. You can always get the aid of a local authority on greyhounds that can help you in organizing your own syndicate. Looking for prospective members wouldn’t be difficult since greyhound racing is a sun sports commonly enjoyed by many. Purchasing your own greyhound pups wouldn’t be difficult either since other than local pet shops, you can always have the option of purchasing online.

There are many greyhound syndicates available in Australia. For more information, click here.

posted by admin on Nov 21

Greyhound handicapping is all about finding the keys to winning. Class is one of the things that almost everyone says is one of those keys, but that doesn’t mean that everyone agrees on what “class” really is.

To some bettors, “class” means grade. To them, a “class dog” is one who runs in the highest grade at their track. A dog who can compete with the best dogs at the track and win or at least run in the money often enough to stay in the top grade. That’s one definition of class.

To other people, class just means what grade the dog is running in at the time. Is he a “Class C” dog or a “Class A”? If you tell them you’re handicapping for class, they don’t have a clue what you’re talking about, because every dog has class. It’s right on the program at the top of the race page. “See, this is a Class D race,” they’ll tell you. “It says Grade D on the program.”

In my opinion, and I always have one, class means more than grade. When I handicap to find the “class” dogs in the race, I’m looking for qualities that depend on more than grade. For instance, in a Grade A race, there may be two dogs who have just run in AA and three dogs who have just run in B and three other dogs who run in A and stay in A. So how do I decide which dog is the class dog in the race?

I could just say that the three dogs who are dropping down from AA are the class dogs, because they’ve been running with a better “class” or “grade” of dog. But if I look at those dogs, I might find that one of them has been in stakes races, while another got up into AA and wasn’t able to keep up with the pace, so it ran at the back of the pack in every race or got into trouble. Obviously, the dog who ran in stakes races is “classier” than the one who can’t keep up with the pace in AA.

In a D race, there might be puppies coming up from M or J who have won a race by 10 lengths and with a terrific time, dogs who have been in C or even higher during this meet, and a dog who is shipping in from another track where it was winning in B. So who’s the class dog here? What about the shipper? Well, that depends on the grade of the track it came from. If the track is a better track than this one, I’d have to consider it. If it’s a lower grade track, I’d give it a miss.

What about the puppy, especially if its litter mates are burning up the track in B and even A? Wouldn’t it be a classy dog? Well, once again, that depends on my judgment of the other dogs, although it’s rare that I consider a puppy – no matter how dazzling its wins look in M and J – classier than a dog that has won at a higher grade. Sometimes, there IS no class dog in the race. These are races where the dogs’ records are so similar that not one stands out above the others. These are races to watch, rather than play.

What does “class” mean to you? Do you look for “class” when you handicap the program? Do you ignore it and go with other factors? We all have our own handicapping systems and what works for me might not work for you and vice versa. However, I consider “class” an important factor in greyhound handicapping, and think that it’s impossible to handicap successfully without taking “class” into consideration. How’s the “class” of your handicapping?

If you’re not winning at the dog track, get the best greyhound handicapping information at “Winning at the Dog Track with Eb”. From Florida to New Hampshire and all the tracks in between, Eb knows greyhounds. Find out how to win at the dog track at Eb’s.