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posted by admin on Oct 31

Greyhound racing is an exciting industry that crosses gender and age boundaries. It is a lot of fun watching greyhounds run around the track, and even more fun if your greyhound wins. Owning the winner would be a more fun and exciting option and with many syndication options out there it has never been easier to become an owner. You have three different options if you want to get involved:

• A greyhound pup syndication- This option is for those who want to get involved as cheaply as possible. The upside of purchasing a pup is that you can get an extremely well bred pup extremely cheaply. The downside is that you have to wait a long time for your dog to race and they may not even make the track.
• Syndication involving a ready to race dog- If you have a bit more money to spare, then you may want to buy a dog that has already broken in. You will end up spending more money on your dog for syndication or your share, but you will not have to wait as long to see your dog on the track.
• Brood Bitch Syndication- After finding out what is involved in a breeding syndicate, this is a favoured option of many of those who want to get involved with ownership. Buy purchasing a brood bitch and mating it with the right dog, you can end up with a litter of pups, some of which you can sell and others you keep and race yourself. This type of syndication can end up paying for itself as you start to sell off some pups.

With greyhound syndication, ownership becomes affordable for almost every budget. All you have to do is decide which type of syndicate you would like to become involved with and away you go.

Hamish Jones organizes Greyhound Syndicates in Victoria, Australia.

If you are keen to get involved, contact him through the website here.

posted by admin on Oct 30

Some dogs, like Border Collies, that were bred to herd and shepherd ,will be very restless if restricted to a small area, while for others, life in an apartment is easy. If you live in an apartment and are looking to add a dog to your life, consider dogs like Scottish Terriers, Cocker Spaniels, Italian Greyhounds or Boxers.

Purebreds or Mutts?

All these factors interweave into a complex list of desirables, for example, you might want a dog with a great coat, a good guard dog and dog that is good with the children, all at the same time. Choices can be difficult and the only sure answer lies in intensive research. All of the breeds we talked about above are purebreds. This means that they are the product of parents of the same breed. To get a true purebred worthy of being in a dog show, you often have to pay thousands of dollars.

But not too many people want show dogs. You might simply want the companionship of a dog that will happily live with you in your circumstances. Most people get mixes of some sort, because rumor has it that purebred dogs can have personality problems because of inbreeding or because the original gene pool is too small. As a result, many people choose to go with a mutt, a mixture of different breeds. Mutts can combine the best of two or more breeds, and actually be a truly one-of-a-kind dog.

Your decision However, you would probably be better off putting yourself first through a lot of quizzes, visiting dog shops, dog shows, and talking to breeders and friends who own dogs. You need to possibly spend as much time researching on your dog as you would on your car, perhaps more, because a dog is preferably to stay with you till its natural lifetime, which might be twelve to fifteen years. A good phase match between your needs and the dog’s attributes is no mere coincidence; it needs to be earned.

So the next time you go to a pet shop and fall for the appeal of a cute and cuddly puppy, go back home and take your time doing research; you will definitely not regret it. A good decision remains a good decision even on the next day and never is it truer than when you set off to make a canine addition to your family.

Copyright © 2005, Ian White

Author Ian White is founder of http://www.dog-breeders.bizThis extensive online directory includes listings by private breeders, kennelclubs, and occasional hobby or family breeders. Those seeking dogs can locate and match with appropriate breeders. Dog-Breeders.biz automates the matching of dogs for sale with dog wanted entries, with daily email notifications to all parties.

Resources to help you choose your purebred puppy and find breeders worldwide”

posted by admin on Oct 29

I usually sit in the same place when I go to my local dog track. Very often there’s a guy who sits near me and we shoot the breeze from time to time. After I’d talked to him a couple of times, it dawned on me that he hardly ever watches a race, even though he bets on almost every one.

Andy looks at his program. He looks at the odds board. He looks at his laptop. He does some calculations on the laptop’s spreadsheet program and then switches to another window that has a handicapping program on it. Then he looks back at the odds board and so on and so forth until the race is over. Then he looks at the odds board one last time to see if he won. The man might as well be listening to the race on the radio.

Me, I look at the dogs as they’re led to the boxes. Sometimes, I even go down and watch them as they’re weighed in and checked before the program starts. It’s not that I’m expecting to discover some hot clue as to who’s going to win. It’s just that I love greyhounds and never get tired of watching them.

I don’t see them as a bunch of statistics or money on the hoof – or paw, I should say. I see them as professional athletes who happen to be dogs. I know that they love what they’re doing – like the best athletes always do. I know they’ll run their hearts out, no matter whether people bet on them or not. And I know that they’re intelligent, gentle, friendly animals, who get along well with other animals and people. Most of all, I know that they’re individuals.

To Andy, they’re just numbers. While they’re parading down to the boxes, he’s crunching numbers and figuring out if the 1 box is still the best box for winning percentage. While they’re listening to the lure squeal around the rail toward them, he’s looking for that last flip that the odds board does that tells him whether his bet was a good choice based on past statistics.

While they’re rounding the first curve and the rest of us are holding our breath, hoping our dog won’t get bumped or blocked, Andy is doing a “what if” scenario to see what the 7 will pay over the 3 and vice versa, because the spreadsheet told him to bet both of those combinations in a complicated tri wheel with four other dogs.

And when they get to the finish line and everyone is asking their neighbor whether it was the 7 or the 6 in front or did the 3 get in there, Andy is running calculations on the next race, completely oblivious to what’s going on around him. He’ll just wait until they put the dogs up on the board and then he’ll know if he won. It doesn’t really matter to him what happened during the race. All he cares about is whether he can cash his tickets.

I can’t understand how anyone can go to the dog track and not watch the races. To me, people like Andy might as well buy lottery tickets or play the slots or some other mechanical betting deal. What in the world is the point of betting on dogs if you don’t watch them? Where’s the connection with what you’re trying to figure out i.e. who’s going to win the race?

I guess people like Andy would say that it’s best if you keep your feelings out of betting. To them, handicapping is a scientific, mathematical operation that has no room for emotions. Well, I beg to differ. I think handicapping is more than numbers, statistics and percentages. I don’t think you can predict what greyhounds will do in any given race with mechanical formulas and odds board calculations.

Sure, you have to use intelligence and good judgment and you have to bet sensibly. But I don’t believe that there’s any way to consistently predict the results of dog races based on statistics and spreadsheets. I think people who bury their heads in this stuff and pay little or no attention to the races miss the best part of going to the dog track – the dogs. I also think that the best handicappers are the ones who have a deep connection to the greyhounds they bet on and would watch dog races even if you couldn’t bet on them.

Before you go to the dog track, find out why smart handicappers are checking out the free articles, tips and Winning Greyhound Systems at http://ebnetr.com

posted by admin on Oct 28

No, not those kind of connections; there’s no godfather of greyhound racing, no matter what anyone tells you. I’m talking about the kind of connections that give you a lot more information than the track program. Access to information that 99% of the other people you’re betting against don’t know about and won’t look for.

To them, it’s too much trouble. Easier to buy a tip sheet, play your dog’s birthday and complain when your “numbers” don’t come in. When will people learn. You play numbers on your Powerball ticket. You play dogs at the greyhound track. In order to play the right dogs, you have to handicap with as much information as possible. Six races back isn’t gonna make it for some races. Most races, if you’re a serious handicapper.

But who wants to keep every program from every card or go over the online programs until your eyesight is blurry from trying to find what you’re looking for. There’s a better way and it all begins with a few links. The most important one, in my opinion, is Greyhound Data. They’re the goods.

You can find out everything you’d ever want to know at this site – except whether the dog is going to win her next race, of course. Although, after you get done looking at the data here, you should certainly have a better idea if the dog can win. If the dog has raced anywhere in the world, you can see all of its statistics: where it raced, when it raced, who it raced against, who its sire and dam were and its litter mates.

You can search by dog, by track, by race. Want to find out the best times at Derby Lane between February 2008 and March 2008? You can go to “races” and search on those terms and many, many others. Want to see what a dog did at its former track? It’s only a click away. So are Simple Race Statistics, Time Based Race Statistics and Advanced Race Statistics.

One word of caution. Don’t get carried away and miss the first race. I’ve done that. I love researching. I also love keeping up with what’s going on in the world of Greyhound Racing, but that isn’t as easy to do as it used to be when there were magazines that followed the sport. In lieu of that, there’s The Greyhound Daily News from the National Greyhound Association. It has news on stakes races and what’s going on at the tracks.

The more you know, the more likely it is that you’ll have the winning edge on the other bettors. I don’t know how many times I’ve caught something in the database that made me realize something I didn’t see on the program. Connections can make all the difference and these are just a click away. If you’d like these links and more, visit my site.

Win at the dog track. Free tips, links to important handicapping information and Winning Greyhound Systems at http://ebnetr.com

posted by admin on Oct 23

Americans are noticing the problem of obesity in almost every part of society. Even children are beginning to have severe health issues from obesity. Though it is a good sign that it seems we have plenty of food to go around, the health risks are very real. Weight issues are also a problem for our pets. Dogs in America have it better than any other country, with a huge variety of formulaic dog food on the market and table scraps that could feed small African villages. Obesity is just as problematic for dogs as it is for humans, and for this reason, pet owners should find out if their dog is overweight. If so, then the process of dieting can be begin.

There is a nine point system that most veterinarians adhere to when evaluating the size of a pet, 1 being extremely thin and 9 being tremendously obese. The ideal body condition of a dog is a score of five. In order to determine this measurement, several factors come into play.

The contour of a dog’s ribs should be easy to feel with the fingers. Though a small amount of fat should cover the outside of the rib cage, the ribs should be easily distinguished. Ribs that are visible to the eye specify that the animal is too thin, and ribs that cannot be felt through the fat indicate the animal is over-weight. This concept should be used similarly for other areas on the animal’s body, such as the base of the tale. Where the tale joins to the body, there should be a slight layer of fat that keeps the bones from protruding but still allows them to be detected by touch. The same goes for several other places such as the shoulders, hips, and spine. All of these inspections should be rated on the 9 point scale and recorded for later calculation. Remember that a score of five is ideal.

The second step of weight evaluation is to observe the size of the pet, first from directly above. By looking down, the contour of a dog’s body is easily perceived. There should be a very clear waist area on dogs, or a thinner place in the dog’s shape below the ribs, producing an hourglass figure. If the figure is extreme, then the pet should receive a low numeric score, and if the waist is undetectable, or opposite in shape, then a higher score should be noted. A second observation should be taken from the side angle. Dogs have what is known as an abdominal tuck. This is an area behind the rib cage where the abdomen is smaller in diameter than the rib cage. This is the observation that can be quite confusing due to the fact that different breeds naturally have different size abdominal tucks. Greyhounds are an example of a breed that has an unusually large rib cage and an extremely small lower abdomen. It is important to be breed specific when coming up with score for this observation.

Once the measurements have been taken, an average of the numbers recorded will provide a ballpark calculation of the pet’s weight evaluation. If the number is over seven, then there is a good chance the animal is at a health risk for obesity. If you believe your dog to be overweight, you should first visit a veterinarian to conclude whether the animal has any other health complications, and if it is safe, a weight reduction plan can begin. A local Vet can also help decide on what sort of diet or exercise program will work best for a particular dog. By keeping a close eye on the size of your pet, you can prevent their weight from becoming out of control and may likely save their life.

About the Author: Dean Burton is the owner of MyDreamPuppy.com, a leading provider of puppies for sale. You can find a variety of dogs for sale that would be great for families or personal companionship. For more information, please visit MyDreamPuppy.com.

posted by admin on Oct 22

Dog flea control and management requires an integrated approach. For effective treatment both the host animal and the environment must be treated at the same time. Control of fleas on the pet generally requires the use of insecticides. Although flea combs can remove some fleas, combing should be thought of as a method for detecting fleas rather than removing them.

If an animal is to be treated for other conditions besides fleas, such as expression of anal glands, these procedures should be done before the insecticide application to minimize insecticide contact with interior mucosal membranes.

A wide range of insecticides are available for flea control. The pyrethrins and pyrethroids have the lowest mammalian toxicity. These insecticides come in many formulations including shampoo, dust and powder, mousse, aerosol and non-aerosol mist or spray, dip, spot-on, roll-on and collar. Organophosphate drugs for oral use are available, by prescription from veterinarians.

In addition, some on-animal formulations contain insect growth regulators (IGRs) that kill flea eggs on the animal. *Remember to read all insecticide labels, and to follow all precautions and dose directions.

The insecticides used for flea control vary widely in toxicity and efficacy. Considerations for selecting a formulation include the size, weight and age of the animal, as well as the species.

For example, greyhounds are a very chemical-sensitive breed and are more sensitive to insecticide products than most other dogs. Do not attach flea collars or flea-killing medallions on these dogs. Do not use chlorpyrifos, DDVP, methoxychior or malathion on greyhounds.

Cats are more sensitive to organophosphate insecticides than dogs. In addition, cats groom themselves more than dogs and are more likely to ingest an insecticide by licking the residue from their fur.

Kittens and puppies, because of their smaller size, require a lower dose than adult animals. Young animals may also require treatment with insecticides of lower toxicity than adult animals. Pregnant or nursing animals may be sensitive to certain insecticides.

Several products are available for especially sensitive pets and other situations that require lower risk chemical measures. These include the citrus peel extracts d-limonene and linalool, sorptive dusts such as silica aerogel or diatomaceous earth, the insect growth regulators fenoxycarb or methoprene, and insecticidal soaps.

Theses words may seem foreign to you, but you can always consult a veterinarian if you have questions. They will have accurate information on insecticides and their use for flea control on pet animals. The insecticide label should also contain accurate information on how a particular formulation of an insecticide should and should not be used. *Remember to read these labels before opening the container!

When using insecticides for flea control, remember that the applicator, namely your pet and you can be exposed to the insecticides several times. The label may call for the use of gloves and other protective equipment during application and suggest the pet not be handled with unprotected hands until the treatment dries. All personal protective equipment listed on the label must be worn. As a minimum aspect, chemical-resistant gloves, apron and goggles should be worn while mixing insecticides and during application to prevent insecticide contact with the skin.

The working area should be appropriate for containment of the pesticide and should be resistant to caustic materials. A stainless steel preparation table and stainless steel or ceramic tub are ideal. Also, certain parts of the pet’s body (such as the eyes) may be sensitive to the insecticides and must be shielded during application. When using flea “bombs” (aerosol cans with a self-releasing mechanism), follow all the precautions and remove the pets from the area being treated. For your information, using excessive aerosols is illegal and may cause fires and even explosions.

The other important part of an integrated flea management program is to control larval fleas in the habitat away from the animal. This can be achieved either mechanically or with insecticides. Mechanical or physical control of flea larvae involves removal and laundering of animal bedding and thorough cleaning of areas frequented by the animal.

Using a vacuum with a beater bar and immediately disposing of the waste bag effectively eliminates up to half of the larvae and eggs in carpet. You should also launder animal bedding and thoroughly clean areas the animal frequents and dispose of the vacuum waste bag after every cleaning.

Do not put insecticides in the vacuum cleaner bag. This is an illegal and dangerous use of the products and can harm you, your family and pets by creating dusts or fumes that could be inhaled.

Another mechanical control measure is carpet shampooing or steam cleaning. This rids the carpet of blood feces, an important food for the larvae, and may also remove eggs and larvae. In outdoor areas, cleaning up the places where animals like to rest reduces eggs and larvae and removes blood pellets. In yards and kennels, flea larvae can be found in cracks at wall-floor junctions and in floor crevices. These areas must be thoroughly cleaned and then maintained to prevent another infestation.

Recently several ultrasound devices, including collars, have entered the market claiming to control or repel fleas. Several scientific studies have investigated these devices and found absolutely no basis for the manufacture’s claims. Ultrasonic devices do not control flea populations. It is unnecessary for you to buy these equipments.

Chemical control of flea larvae can be achieved with insecticides. Organophosphate, carbamate, pyrethrin, pyrethroid and growth regulator (hormone mimic) insecticides as well as certain minerals are available for flea control in the environment These insecticides are formulated as coarse sprays, foggers and dusts or are micro-encapsulated.

All but the growth regulators kill flea larvae on contact. Insect growth regulators prevent flea larvae from developing to the adult stage. Growth regulators may also inhibit egg hatching. A good flea larval control program will incorporate sanitation, contact insecticides and growth regulators for good results.

Flea management requires patience, time and careful planning. Vacuuming and cleaning areas frequented by dogs and cats should be routine. The same applies to kennels. If an infestation occurs, insecticide applications on the animals or in the environment may have to be repeated according to the label. The need for retreatment and time intervals between insecticide treatments will vary with the kind of insecticide and the formulation.

Flea control will not be successful if only one approach is used. The animal and its environment must be treated simultaneously, and that treatment must be combined with regular sanitation efforts. Read all product labels carefully. Do not overexpose your pet by combining too many treatments at one time, such as a collar, a shampoo and a dust. Pesticides have a cumulative effect. Be aware of each product’s toxicity and do not endanger yourself or the animal by using excessive amounts of any one product or by combining products.

To end, please remember that flea control will only be successful when you treat both your pet and the environment simultaneously. Hope this article is useful in helping you manage flea problems.

Moses Chia is the webmaster of DogsObedienceTraining.com. He provides more helpful information on dog obedience training, dog training book reviews and dog illness symptoms interpretation that you can learn in the comfort of your home on his website. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

posted by admin on Oct 22

The policies of many agencies are very protective about the home environment in which the Greyhound will be placed. Often, the adoption placement process ie. application, interview and approval can be quite lengthy. Some groups will not place dogs into apartments, homes without fenced yards or homes with cats, toddlers or stairs. And most if not all have the potential adopter promise to keep their Greyhound on a leash at all times when outside of a protected area or reserve the right to take the dog back. Adoption placement cost is usually not a major factor. Most agencies charge from $75 to $225.

Be sure to compare medical services provided. All agencies should clip the nails, test for heartworm and provide basic shots and de-worming medicine. After adoption placement many groups offer support, as needed. Often this support makes the difference in whether the dog stays or gets returned. In terms of philosophy some agencies strongly oppose dog racing, and others are operated by the dog tracks. Many organizations remain neutral to preserve their relationships with the trainers or to avoid jeopardizing monetary support from the tracks.

Many agencies place their Greyhounds into a home environment for a brief period before adoption placement. Fostering is usually a great way to ease the transition. During the foster period, many agencies have the dog’s teeth cleaned and have them spayed or neutered. The foster families make sure the dogs are housebroken as well as introduce the dogs to many of the new experiences of retired life, such as televisions, stairs, mirrors, couches and children. Some groups test their dogs to determine whether they are cat-safe. If you have a cat or other small pet, be sure to ask for a dog with a low prey drive. Some agencies will make a real effort to evaluate the Greyhound’s personality to ensure a good match. Some adoption groups do not have the resources to foster the dogs; in this case placement often occur straight from the kennel.

Gabriele’s website http://www.1st-greyhound-dog-care.com was created for the appreciation of this unique breed. Having been an owner for fifteen years has given her first hand knowledge and a special love for the sensitive and beautiful Greyhound dog.

posted by admin on Oct 21

When I first started going to the dog track, I loved betting on closers. Not for me the early speed dogs that went off at low odds. Nope. I was the one who bet on the dog that hung back until the last turn, then put on the juice and passed the tiring speedballs that the crowd had bet down to nothing. My closers, on the other hand, usually paid well, because most bettors are fools for early speed and afraid to bet closers because they might get blocked or not make it in time.

My friend, Willie, who got me going to the track in the first place, used to call me Longshot Louie, because I bet on so many closers at long odds. But he had to admit that they paid off well when they came in. And nothing beats the thrill of seeing your longshot pass the frontrunners right at the wire, except the thrill of cashing a ticket on a dog at 10-1. For me, the drama was almost as important as winning.

But now, the thrill is gone. I don’t bet on dogs because they’re closers anymore, unless there are other good reasons to bet on them. Over the last thirty years, I’ve learned that dramatics don’t pay the bills. The thrill I get from cashing several tickets on dogs who pay decent – but not long – odds is much better than cashing one longshot ticket and losing the other longshot bets.

Early speed and the ability to keep up with the pace are more likely to indicate a winner than pure closing ability. Even in a route race, early speed is a good thing. Although closing ability is important, go over your old programs and notice how many times the winner of a route race got out early. Maybe it wasn’t first, but it was out there at the beginning of the race or at least at the 1/8th call.

Every once in awhile, a dog comes along that gets up into stakes races, even though it doesn’t have early speed. When that happens it makes for some exciting races, because so many stakes dogs have early speed. Of course, the really good ones also have stamina and determination. (K’s Flak’s puppies come to mind. They must have been crossed with bulldogs somewhere in the past, because they never gave up.)

I love watching races where closers come off the pace to nip the frontrunners right at the wire, but I don’t bet on many of those races. I don’t bet on whims either, like I did when I first started going to the dog track. Nowadays, I use much better judgment and cash a lot more tickets than I did back then. I still get a thrill, but I don’t have to have a cliff-hanger finish on every race to get one.

If you’re not winning at the dog track, get the best greyhound handicapping information at “Winning at the Dog Track with Eb”. From Florida to New Hampshire and all the tracks in between, Eb knows greyhounds. Find out how to win at the dog track at Eb’s.

posted by admin on Oct 20

Dogs are believed to be descendants of wild wolves. They were the first wild animal to be tamed. Ancient man probably brought home cub wolves to raise as pets. The pet wolves were also useful in driving away bears and other wild animals. One of the oldest known breed of dogs is the Salukis, which were bred by Egyptians thousands of years ago as hunting dogs. Greyhounds and Dalmatians are also among the oldest breeds documented.

Over the centuries, people have found many ways for dogs to be useful. Dogs helped to pull loads, herd cattle and sheep, and guard their master and the master’s property. The Ancient Greeks developed tiny lap dogs, which were meant to be held in a lady’s lap to help keep her stomach warm. Bulldogs with huge jaws and short noses were developed so they could hang onto the throat of a bull and still be able to breathe. In more recent years, dogs have been trained as seeing eye dogs for the blind. Dogs have also been recruited to work with law enforcement to detect drugs and explosives.

Today many dogs, such as the Poodle or Chihuahua, no longer resemble the wolf. Other dogs, such as the Siberian Husky and the German Shepherd still show a strong resemblance to the wolf. There are many different breeds in existence today, from the short haired Beagle and Boston Terrier to the long haired Cockers and Scotties. The Beagle may be better suited to live in the city, while Setters or Collies may be more comfortable in the country. The tallest dogs are Great Danes and the Irish Wolfhound. They would probably be more comfortable in a place where they had a lot of room to run and play.

In the United States, one out of three families owns one or more dogs. Most dogs live anywhere from eight to fifteen years. When dogs are one year old, they are as physically mature as a 15 year old human. Dogs can see some color but not as vividly as humans, thus they are considered color blind. Yet, dogs can see much better in dim light than us. Dogs have us beat in the category of smell, also. Their sense of smell is up to one million times greater than humans!

Regardless of which kind of dog you choose- big, little, smooth haired, shaggy, fast, slow, playful or dignified, dogs make wonderful companions. Enjoy their companionship and remember they need plenty of love, attention, and petting to be happy!

About The Author

Wendy Yeager – http://www.wenmarcorp.com/dogs-go2

mjy222@hotmail.com

posted by admin on Oct 19

It took me about three years of handicapping to discover something that everyone should know about playing the dogs: almost everything works for awhile. I had been going over programs from Lincoln, now called Twin Rivers, a track with decent dogs where speed mattered. Still does there, as far as I know, because the dogs are still good compared to a lot of the tracks that have gone downhill.

Anyway, I was going over past programs, trying to figure out how to narrow the dogs down to three dogs and then trying to handicap the winner from those three. So, for every race, I underlined the dogs with the best time in their last race. Then I handicapped and picked the dog I thought should win. Then I checked the results.

I was amazed when I discovered that even when I didn’t pick the winner, the dog I picked and the other two dogs with best times in their last races were very often the quiniela and at least two or three times on a program, they’d be the tri and pay well. I couldn’t believe my eyes.

Could it be this simple, I thought? Had I been making it too complicated? Was the secret to making money at the dog track at Lincoln just a matter of boxing the three dogs with the best times in their last races in quiniela and trifecta boxes? I was flabbergasted and so eager to try it out, that I only did a few more programs – which it worked on – before taking it to the track for a test drive.

I started on a Wednesday and hit six quinielas and two tris to the tune of $126 more than I spent. This was magic! There was no racing on Thursday, so I waited and went back on Friday. Same thing, only I didn’t make as much. Only $80 profit, but any profit was better than the losing streak I’d been on.

On Saturday, there were two programs and I handicapped both of them very carefully, then went to the track with enough money to play both of them. I bought my tickets and sat up in the stands away from everyone else so that I could really watch the races and keep track of what was going on. Only, for me, there was nothing going on.

I cashed one quiniela ticket for $18 on the second program and nothing on the first. I was down over $200 and the wonderful system I had discovered didn’t pick one quiniela or trifecta and very few winners. And when it did pick a winner, some longshot would get in for second and I wouldn’t get the quiniela. I was really discouraged, but I told myself that I just had to be patient and keep trying.

I tried until I had blown over $500 and then I came to my senses and realized that it wasn’t going to work. The simple system I had “discovered” was just a fluke, a temporary thing that I took for a pattern. If I had checked it out on more past programs, I would have realized that without spending so much money.

That was my first introduction to how easy it is to think that you’ve found the secret to winning at the dog track with some simple formula. Believe me, there isn’t one. The only way to win at the track is with handicapping. Of course, methods like the ones I sell on my site can help. It’s a lot easier if you work with the knowledge and insight that other people have spent time learning instead of always starting from square one and doing everything yourself.

But as much as we’d like to believe that there’s some simple mechanical way of picking winners at the greyhound races, I think we really know that there isn’t any such thing. That’s why learning to handicap from people who have put the time in to learn the ropes is so important. Most everything works for awhile or some of the time, but nothing but handicapping, good judgment and self control works in the long run.

Before you go to the dog track, find out why smart handicappers are checking out the free articles, tips and Winning Greyhound Systems at http://ebnetr.com