Archive for September, 2008

posted by admin on Sep 10

The Italian Greyhound is a charming little dog of grace and beauty. They are usually jolly little guys. This is a breed that was kept in England as far back as the 17th century. They enjoyed the royal favor of many while in Prussia. The famous Frederick the Great simply adored his Greyhound pets and even left instructions in his will that his body should be buried among his pets in the Greyhound cemetery in the Park of Sans Souci.

The Italian Greyhound comes in colors of all shades of fawn, mouse, white and red. Of interesting note is that the old-time dogs were found in a variety of shades because at Hampton Court, in a painting of the Queen of James I., there are several greyhounds in the colors of fawn, blue, blue and white. So that even as far back as those days the Italian Greyhounds were of a variety of colors.

As with most of the toy breeds we find that they started out much larger in size, the original Italian Greyhound weighed somewhere around 14 pounds.

In appearance the Italian Greyhound of today should resemble the original version just in miniature size. Sometimes it is difficult to produce smaller versions without impairing their health. However, when discussing the point of elegance of the Italian Greyhound, there is virtually none who matches this beautiful creature, who’s every movement, indicates “grace personified,” and his peculiar prancing action is a distinct characteristic belonging only to the Italian Greyhound.

The Italian Greyhound should have the tulip or prick ears; these are considered “bad” faults, which should be very carefully avoided. He should not be compactly built as shown in his terrier crosses, which were sometimes used to reduce his size. The terrier crosses have also been known to create the bulging eye and the apple head, both of which are very undesirable.

There is further evidence of the terrier crosses to reduce size found in some puppies when first born. They will usually be a black and tan, while in purebred animals they are whole-colored or fawn-and-white.

The Italian Greyhound is gentle and affectionate and not quite a delicate as his fragile form suggests. In cold weather, you need to keep your Italian Greyhound in the house. He should sleep in an area free of drafts and when taken outside in cold weather dress your Italian Greyhound with a warm sweater or coat.

To keep your Italian Greyhound in good physical shape he requires a good deal of exercise. Take care not to over feed your Italian Greyhound. The Italian Greyhound must never be allowed to become “fat,” in order to retain their beautiful lines and graceful form.

Don’t expect your Italian Greyhound to serve as a domestic alarm or protector, although he is capable of being a very sharp watch-dog and hear the slightest of sound. He is more dedicated to the comforts of the tea table, the fireside carpet, and the luxurious indulgences of the sofa and a warm lap of his mistress or master.

The general appearance of an Italian Greyhound is that of ideal elegance and grace of shape, symmetry and action. He has a flat skull, long and narrow, muzzle very fine, nose dark in color, ears rose-shaped placed well back, soft and delicate and should touch or nearly so behind the head. His eyes are fairly large, bright and full of expression. His neck is long and gracefully arched. His thighs are muscular, feet are long with arched toes and well slit up. The Italian Greyhound has a tail that is rather long, fine with low carriage. His hair is thin and glossy like satin. One of the most prized colors of the Italian Greyhound is the golden fawn color, but he comes in all shades of fawn, red, mouse, blue, cream and white, blacks, and brindles. His weight today is around 8 pounds average and he prances about with a high and free step.

This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.

Author: Connie Limon, Visit: http://www.camelotarticles.com

posted by admin on Sep 10

Greyhound racing is a sport in which greyhound dogs run after a lure on a track until they arrive at a finish line. A lure or bait is a mechanical device that moves around a track at a considerable distance from the dogs and often looks like a hare or rabbit. A dog that arrives first at a finish line is the victor. In many countries, greyhound racing is simply amateur and conducted for pleasure. In the U.S., UK, and Australia, it is a well-liked form of gambling, like horse racing. Contemporary greyhound racing has its origins in coursing. In the early 1900s, Patrick Owen introduced the idea of greyhound racing. Later, the first circular track was built in California in 1919.

Greyhounds are kept in paddocks before the beginning of race. After pre-race processes and examinations, greyhounds are put in separate compartments in starting boxes, called traps. These traps have automatic gates. Greyhounds are provided with water and an open area for walking after completion of race. The victor is called to the winner’s circle.

Registration and identification of greyhounds is a responsibility of the National Greyhound Association. It is a non-profit organization working in North America. Only registered owners can enter into an exclusive agreement with a registered kennel. These kennels then contract with various tracks. The World Greyhound Racing Federation (WGRF) was founded in 1969. It is a non-regulatory organization and is committed to providing information and supporting the sport nationally and internationally.

There are certain states, such as California and Maine, that ban greyhound racing. Other states forbid the use of live rabbits and other small animals as bait for dogs in chase. The way the greyhounds are handled and trained is also a subject of debate. The dogs unfit for racing are either slaughtered or given to laboratories for experimentation.

Racing provides detailed information on Racing, Horse Racing, Auto Racing, Drag Racing and more. Racing is affiliated with Track And Field Equipment.

posted by admin on Sep 9

You may like to supersize your coffee and get extra toppings on your pizza, but when it comes to choosing a dog, bigger doesn’t always mean better. Dog breeds differ by heritage in what they require.

Some breeds, like hunters, are genetically programmed to crave the open spaces and outdoor exercise. Other breeds (like toy dogs) make ideal “lap dogs,” enjoying the casual lifestyle without needing much space or time to run and play outdoors.

The size of your dog has to match the size of your living space. A German Shepherd is a wonderful watch dog for your city apartment, but you must give that dog time in the park to run and be active every day.

If you’re too tired or lazy to give this beautiful dog the exercise it needs, then buy an alarm system, not a guard dog. A toy dog like a poodle or Chihuahua is content in your apartment and requires less outdoor time.

If you have a secured balcony with solid, high railing, that may be enough outdoor time for a small dog, supplemented with at least one daily outdoor walk. Don’t let the dog’s appearance or temperament fool you.

A greyhound is a gentle dog that’s also very quiet, which is good for attached living spaces. But that gentle greyhound must have daily exercise in enough area to run and play. Greyhounds can run up to 45 mph, so you don’t want them turning your family room into a track for running. Neither you nor the dog will be pleased with the result.

Size has everything to do with dog maintenance. That cute, furry puppy that you fell in love with at the pet store that barely nibbles puppy chow, grows up to be a 120-pound St Bernard that will eat you out of house and home.

To keep him in 8-10 scoops of high quality dog food daily, you’ll be spending the price of a daily steak dinner – only you don’t get to eat the steak. Your huge dog also pushes around furniture like feathers. When there’s nothing to do and you’re running late, the large dog may decide to deconstruct the living room just for fun.

On the flip side, plenty of toy dogs take up their own closet in little designer costumes, knit sweaters and clever playthings. They also have chic beds, including those that are canopied or French provincial. The doggie stuff can take up far more space in your home than the dog does.

If you have more than one dog, regardless of breed, you need to provide sleeping space for each dog. Don’t expect them to crowd together. They need space just like you do. They also need personal territory for sleeping, relaxing and hiding their toys or bones.

Dogs that remain outdoors need their own doghouses to protect them while sleeping or in bad weather. You aren’t sharing your bedroom with the neighbors, so why would you expect your dog to share his doghouse with the new dog? Consider the space and care needs of each dog when you bring a second or third dog into the family.

Doesn’t Your Dog Deserve the Best

http://www.BestDogDiets.com

posted by admin on Sep 8

A lot of greyhound fans love to watch the cream of the crop race in stakes races. Track attendance usually goes up during the qualifying races that lead up to the stakes race and there may even be articles in the paper or on the radio about the event.

But not everyone is happy when a stakes race comes around. My friend, Woody, hates stakes races. He says it’s stupid to bet on stakes races because the favorite gets bet down to nothing and usually wins. I don’t have the statistics, but he’s probably right that the favorite in stakes races wins more of the time than the favorite in non-stakes races.

After all, every dog in the stakes race has raced against the best of the best dogs and beat them to make it to the final race. Of course, to me that also means that any dog in the race is capable of beating the other dogs, given the opportunity and some luck or a little extra running room or the benefit of another dog’s mistake.

But even if the winner does come in at low odds, there are other reasons to go to the dog track when there are stakes races. For one thing, the track wants to attract fans to the stakes to increase the handle, so don’t be surprised if the other races on the card are better than usual also. Maybe it’s just my imagination, but it seems to me that the dogs in most of the races are easier to handicap when there are stakes races. Maybe because they’re dogs who run truer to form than some dogs do?

For whatever reason, I always do well in the races on the same card with the stakes races. I don’t bet any differently or bet more, but I seem to go home with more money than I usually do. Maybe it’s the atmosphere or the fact that there are people there who don’t normally come to the dog track. Remember, pari-mutuel betting is betting against the other bettors. If the other bettors don’t know how to handicap, it gives people like us the edge.

For me, in addition to the bonus of winning a little extra, stakes races mean that I get to watch superb athletes doing what they do best. Winning. The dogs really enjoy it. The fans almost all like the special quality of the events surrounding the stakes and the ceremony of acknowledging the winner. It’s something out of the ordinary for the dogs and the fans and it adds some spice to life. Let’s face it, we all need something a little special once in awhile. Isn’t that why we go to the dog track?

Stakes races or D races, learn to handicap better and smarter with Winning Greyhound Systems at http://ebnetr.com

posted by admin on Sep 7

It took me about three years of handicapping to discover something that everyone should know about playing the dogs: almost everything works for awhile. I had been going over programs from Lincoln, now called Twin Rivers, a track with decent dogs where speed mattered. Still does there, as far as I know, because the dogs are still good compared to a lot of the tracks that have gone downhill.

Anyway, I was going over past programs, trying to figure out how to narrow the dogs down to three dogs and then trying to handicap the winner from those three. So, for every race, I underlined the dogs with the best time in their last race. Then I handicapped and picked the dog I thought should win. Then I checked the results.

I was amazed when I discovered that even when I didn’t pick the winner, the dog I picked and the other two dogs with best times in their last races were very often the quiniela and at least two or three times on a program, they’d be the tri and pay well. I couldn’t believe my eyes.

Could it be this simple, I thought? Had I been making it too complicated? Was the secret to making money at the dog track at Lincoln just a matter of boxing the three dogs with the best times in their last races in quiniela and trifecta boxes? I was flabbergasted and so eager to try it out, that I only did a few more programs – which it worked on – before taking it to the track for a test drive.

I started on a Wednesday and hit six quinielas and two tris to the tune of $126 more than I spent. This was magic! There was no racing on Thursday, so I waited and went back on Friday. Same thing, only I didn’t make as much. Only $80 profit, but any profit was better than the losing streak I’d been on.

On Saturday, there were two programs and I handicapped both of them very carefully, then went to the track with enough money to play both of them. I bought my tickets and sat up in the stands away from everyone else so that I could really watch the races and keep track of what was going on. Only, for me, there was nothing going on.

I cashed one quiniela ticket for $18 on the second program and nothing on the first. I was down over $200 and the wonderful system I had discovered didn’t pick one quiniela or trifecta and very few winners. And when it did pick a winner, some longshot would get in for second and I wouldn’t get the quiniela. I was really discouraged, but I told myself that I just had to be patient and keep trying.

I tried until I had blown over $500 and then I came to my senses and realized that it wasn’t going to work. The simple system I had “discovered” was just a fluke, a temporary thing that I took for a pattern. If I had checked it out on more past programs, I would have realized that without spending so much money.

That was my first introduction to how easy it is to think that you’ve found the secret to winning at the dog track with some simple formula. Believe me, there isn’t one. The only way to win at the track is with handicapping. Of course, methods like the ones I sell on my site can help. It’s a lot easier if you work with the knowledge and insight that other people have spent time learning instead of always starting from square one and doing everything yourself.

But as much as we’d like to believe that there’s some simple mechanical way of picking winners at the greyhound races, I think we really know that there isn’t any such thing. That’s why learning to handicap from people who have put the time in to learn the ropes is so important. Most everything works for awhile or some of the time, but nothing but handicapping, good judgment and self control works in the long run.

Before you go to the dog track, find out why smart handicappers are checking out the free articles, tips and Winning Greyhound Systems at http://ebnetr.com

posted by admin on Sep 5

It doesn’t take too long for greyhound handicappers to figure out that the best post positions at almost all dog tracks are the 1, 2, 3, and 8 boxes. If you look at the statistics in the program, you’ll find that the three inside positions and the far outside one account for way more dogs in the money than the other boxes. So, why don’t we just bet 1238 quiniela and trifecta boxes and clean up at the track?

Well, some people DO bet those numbers, but I don’t think it works too well. For one thing, everyone knows about it, so when they come in, they don’t pay that well. For another thing, even though dogs come in more often from those boxes, they still come in from the other boxes too. There’s no way of telling in any particular race whether the winner will come from the golden boxes or from one of the other ones.

My take on post position is that it’s more important whether a dog likes the post position it’s in and whether it’s moving to a more favorable post position or a less favorable one – for that individual dog’s running style.

Let’s say there’s a dog – we’ll call him Sparky – who’s had six races in inside boxes and hasn’t been in the money in one of them. Today, he’s in the four box. You look at all of Sparky’s previous races (read about how to do that in my previous article “Winning With Connections”) and see that he’s a solid midtrack runner with early speed. That might explain why he’s had trouble in almost all of the races he ran from inside boxes.

When Sparky breaks and zips over to the middle of the track, he’s probably had breakers beside him, some of whom were probably trying to get inside. They bumped Sparky and he bumped them and that explains why he didn’t come in. But now, Sparky is right where he wants to be and probably pretty dadblamed sick of getting knocked around.

To me, this situation is ripe for a betting opportunity. Sparky looks lousy to the bettors who are only looking at the six races they can see in the program. But I know from looking at Greyhound Data that he’s had some very good races from the middle of the track, so I have good reason to think that he’s a contender in this race due to his favorable post position.

If you want to check out how often this kind of situation happens, look over your old programs for dogs who win and pay well. Many times, it’s because they looked lousy in their last six races because they weren’t in the post position they wanted to be in. Pay particular attention to dogs who have been in outside boxes and then move to the 1 or 2 box.

Post position is just one of the things you need to consider when you’re handicapping races. Before you go to the dog track, find out why smart handicappers are checking out the free articles, tips and Winning Greyhound Systems at http://ebnetr.com

posted by admin on Sep 4

Many people want to become involved in the greyhound racing industry but cannot afford to buy a dog on their own. As such, they want to become a part of a syndicate. If you are one of these people that want to start a syndicate, then this article should give you a little information to get started. Basically you have there syndication options and below you will find a short description of each.

  • Buying a Greyhound Pup- Your first option is to buy a pup. This is by far your cheapest option as you can get a well bred pup quite cheaply. It is not without its downsides though. There is a risk that your pup will not break in well and may not even make it to the race track. You need to keep these things in mind when considering your syndicate options.
  • Buying a ready to race greyhound- Your next option is to buy a greyhound or a share in a greyhound that is ready to race. This is going to be more expensive but you do have the benefit of knowing your greyhound has broken in well and you will more quickly see your greyhound at the track.
  • Setting up a breeding syndicate- a Breeding greyhound syndicate is a more exotic option, but after initial start up costs, the syndicate could possibly end up paying for itself, giving you a tidy profit and also your own greyhounds to race. Basically, you would buy a city winning brood bitch and breed her with a city winning dog. You could then sell off some of the pups and keep some pups to race yourself.

As you have seen, there are a variety of greyhound syndicate options out there. You can decide on one preferred syndicate option or you can buy shares in a variety of options. It is all up to you.

Hamish Jones organizes Greyhound Syndicates in Victoria, Australia.

If you are keen to get involved, contact him through the website here.