Greyhound Blog Home       Greyhound Betting System

posted by admin on Sep 21

Finding the perfect pet is difficult when there are so many different breeds to choose from. Use this guide to learn more about a few of the different breed available.

Alaskan Malamute

The Alaskan Malamute is the oldest Arctic dog breed in the world and was bred as a working dog. They were used to pull sleds as well as hunt. This is a friendly dog that makes a great family pet. They love children, but aren’t fond of the company of other dogs. They are a smart breed that can learn quickly but tend to get bored easily.

To groom this breed you will need to brush their fur out weekly. Some of the health concerns associated with this breed include growth problems, eye problems, and hip dysplasia.

Bloodhound

The Bloodhound, also referred to as the St. Hubert’s Hound or the Chien St. Hubert, is a Belgium breed that was bred tracking and hunting. This is one of the oldest hound breeds in the world. They typically grow to be between 23 and 27 inches tall and they usually weigh between 80 and 90 pounds. They have a short smooth coat that is waterproof. Their coat colors vary between black and tan and red and tan. Red Bloodhounds can also be found. They have folds of skin around their face and neck which help to gather scent and direct it towards their nose.

To care for this breed you will need to rub down their coats with a wet towel a few times a week. Their toenails will also need to be clipped on a weekly basis. Their ears also need to be tended to on a regular basis. For exercise this breed needs daily runs and lots of play time. To keep their minds stimulated you may want to introduce tracking games. This breed has a few health concerns that you should be aware of: hip dysplasia, inverted eyelids, and bloating.

Boxer

The Boxer is a German breed that was created by crossing a Bullenbeisser, an unknown breed, and an English Bulldog. This breed was originally very aggressive and used for fighting and baiting bulls. However, over the years this breed lost their aggressiveness and it has become better suited for family life.

The boxer is a mid-sized dog breed that typically stands between 21 and 25 inches tall. They usually weigh between 66 and 70 pounds. Their coat is short, smooth and shiny. Their coat can come in a variety of colors and have several different marking patterns. Some of the most common colors Boxers have include white, brindle, and fawn.

Brussels Griffon

The Brussels Griffon, also referred to as the Griffon Belge, the Griffon Bruxellois, and the Belgian Griffon, is a small Belgium dog breed that was used to kill vermin in horse stables. This interesting looking little fellow stands between 7 and 8 inches tall and weighs in at a whopping 6 to 12 pounds. They come in two varieties, rough hair and smooth hair. Both versions can be found with black, black and tan, or red colored coats.

To care for this little dog you will want to brush their coat several times a week to prevent matting and to remove debris and dirt. They can usually get enough exercise to stay healthy by playing indoors, however, they also enjoy spending time frolicking outside and going for short walks. This dog will need to be trained and you will need to be consistent with your praise and corrections. If you plan on breeding this dog you should understand that they have a very difficult time whelping and only about 60 percent of puppies make it. In addition to reproductive problems, this breed also has respiratory issues and eye problems.

Chihuahua

The Chihuahua is a Mexican breed that was discovered about 100 years ago. They are a toy dog that stands between 6 and 9 inches tall and they typically weigh less than 6 pounds. Their coats come in two variations, short and long. The long coat is soft and can be either straight or wavy. The short coat is soft and dense. Both coat variations can come in just about any color or color combination.

To care for this breed you will need to groom their hair daily for the long haired version, and as needed for the short hair version. This is an indoor pet that is not suited for extended periods of time outside. However, they do enjoy playing outside and going for short walks. To manage this breed’s temperament you need to socialize it and train it early. Some of the health concerns that are associated with this breed include kneecap problems, eye problems, and tracheal problems.

English Springer Spaniel

The English Springer Spaniel, also referred to as the Norfolk Spaniel, is a British breed that is known for being the oldest spaniel breed in the world. They were originally developed as a hunting dog. Their name derives from the springy steps that they take when on the hunt. Today this breed is still used as a hunting dog, however, they also make a great family pet if trained and socialized properly.

The English Springer Spaniel requires regular grooming to keep its coat shiny and clean. The best type of brush to use on their soft coat is a stiff bristle brush. Bathing should only be done when they need it. This breed also needs a lot of exercise. Long walks and plenty of play time in the yard or in a fenced in park each day will keep them healthy, happy, and out of trouble.

Fox Terrier (Smooth)

The Fox Terrier (Smooth) is a cute little dog that originated in England as a vermin hunter. This breed was grouped with the Wired Fox Terrier until 1984 when it was established as its own unique breed. Today this breed is still used to hunt vermin, however, it is also used as a family pet.

The Smooth Fox Terrier is a playful, energetic breed that loves playing with kids. If you have other pets in your family this breed may chase them, especially if they are small like cats. And they may try to take the dominate role if you have other dogs. To keep them happy and healthy they will need lots of exercise, lots of mental stimulation, and a lot of attention. They are intelligent and respond well to obedience training, however, they have a stubborn streak that may keep them from coming to you when you call them, especially if they are having fun.

Fox Terrier (Wire)

The Fox Terrier (Wire), also called the Wire Fox Terrier, is a British breed that was developed back in the 19th century as a vermin hunter. This breed most likely descends from the Beagle, Shropshire and Cheshire. Today, this very active dog breed is used as both a family pet and a vermin hunter.

This little dog stands about 15.5 inches tall and weighs between 16 and 18 pounds. Their have short wiry hair that gives them a plush look. Their coats should be predominantly white with tan and/or black markings. This dog makes a great playmate for kids. However, you will want to be careful what other pets you pair this dog with as it has a tendency to chase anything that is small than it is.

Greyhound

The Greyhounds is an Egyptian breed that was originally used to hunt wolves, wild boars and deer. This breed was originally associated with aristocracy and high class citizenship. Today this breed is used for racing, hunting and for pets.

The Greyhound is a tall athletic dog that stands between 27 and 30 inches tall and weighs between 60 and 70 pounds. They usually have a short, close coat that comes in a variety of colors including: multi-color, white, blue, fallow brindle, black, and red. This dog is truly a gentle giant that are great with kids. Since they were bred as hunting dogs they have a natural instinct to chase anything smaller then they are so they may not be the best house mates for small pets.

Puli

The Puli, also called the Pulik, the Hungarian Puli and the Hungarian Water Dog, is a herding dog that originated in Hungary. It is a medium sized dog that stands between 14 and 19 inches tall and weighs between 20 and 40 pounds. They have a shaggy and weatherproof outercoat and a soft wooly undercoat. Their coloring is usually pretty dark. The most common colors found in this breed include black, dark rust, gray, and apricot.

Sealyham Terrier

The Sealyham Terrier, is a terrier breed that originated in Wales. This breed most likely developed from crossing the Cheshire Terrier, the Welsh Corgi, the Dandi Dinmont Terrie, the West Highland Terrier and the Fox Terrier. It is a small dog that only stands about 12 inches high and it weigh between 18 and 20 pounds. They have a coat similar to the Scottish Terrier, however, their coat colors are slightly different. The Sealyham Terrier comes in shades of white, lemon, blue, badger pied, black, and brown.

Vizsla

The Vizsla, also called the Hungarian Vizsla, the Magyar Vizsla, the Drotszoru Magyar Vizsla, and the Hungarian Pointer, is a Hungarian sporting dog breed. They are a medium sized dog that stands between 22.5 and 25 inches tall and that weighs between 48.5 and 66 pounds. They have a short straight coat that comes in a brownish red color. White traces on their chest and feet are common. The Vizsla is a sweet nature dog that is gentle and tolerant. They make a great family dog and companion, as well as a great hunting dog.

Whippet

The Whippet is a British breed that was created by crossing the Greyhound with a variety of terrier breeds. This dog was originally used as a mouser and vermin hunter, however, they also made a living at the dog races. Today this dog is used for both hunting and as a companion.

The Whippet is hound dog that stands between 17 and 20 inches tall and weighs about 28 pounds. They have a short, fine coat that comes in a variety of colors and patterns. When you look at this dog they look just like a miniature Greyhound.

Yorkshire Terrier

The Yorkshire Terrier, is a toy dog breed that originated in Great Britain. They were originally used as a lap dog and fashion accessory by Victorian aristocracy. Many dog experts believe that this breed was created by crossing the Skye Terrier, Clydesdale Terrier, the Manchester Terrier, the Paisley and the Maltese.

The Yorkshire Terrier is petite and it only stands between 6 and 9 inches tall and it weighs between 3 and 7 pounds. They have a silk long coat that is variegated. Steel blue and tan are common shades found in their coat.

Dog behavior, pet training and puppy breeder information all in one place online. The ultimate resource for dog owners. Learn expert dog training technique, advice to help with dog behavior problems, a dog training forum as well as a directory of dog trainers and breeders all over the country to help you locate a professional near you. Learn about puppy obedience training, pet nutrition, dog obedience, housebreaking and more. Check out our puppy training e-book for more tips to help you raise an obedient pet and companion.

posted by admin on Sep 19

Over feeding and under feeding your dog poses a severe health risk for them and your wallet. Big or little, a five-pound swing in the weight of your dog represents a big change in their body mass and must be treated as a serious condition.

Your dog cannot control its appetite. He or she will eat until they are full; certain breeds (greyhounds, for example) don’t even have a mechanism to tell them when they are “full.” If you provide too much food for their body type, activity level, and age, they will store the extra calories in body fat. Too little food will cause their body to harvest the extra calories it needs from body fat if they are active and lean muscle if they are not.

If you cause your dog to become overweight – and, make no mistake, it is your fault, not theirs – the strain on their heart, immune system, and joints will result in additional veterinary bills and eventual loss of companionship from their early demise. To combat the curse of the obese canine, you must track their body weight, exercise, and food intake compulsively.

Start by developing a baseline: record your dog’s weight and your estimate of their overall “fitness” at least once a week, the weight and type of food they eat every day, and an honest daily assessment of exercise. Unless your vet has previously diagnosed an unhealthy condition in your dog, your estimate of your dog’s overall health is just as good as a professional opinion. If you have questions about what your dog should look like, many kennel clubs maintain online galleries of specific breeds that can aid your eye.

Regardless of your dog’s condition, make a firm commitment to dramatically increasing the exercise they get. Exercise is good for their heart and lungs and lets them develop strong, lean muscles. Dogs who receive plenty of exercise burn off a lot of nervous energy, making them better-behaved, and the extra exercise can help you shed a few extra pounds, too!

If you feel your dog is underweight, slightly increase the quantity of food they receive and immediately give them a dramatic increase in opportunities for exercise. The exercise will stimulate their appetite, add body mass as lean muscle, strengthen their joints, and teach their body to use more of the calories in the food they eat.

Overweight dogs can easily be stressed by too much change in their daily routine. Gradually decreasing their caloric intake and increasing their exercise will prevent injuries to joints and fragile bone structures. Longer periods of exercise at a moderate level are preferable to short periods of strenuous exercise in an overweight dog, so take them on a long daily walk instead of jogging them. As their heart and lungs gain increased capacity, the fat will melt off their bodies and new, lean muscle will appear to protect their joints.

Every dog needs plenty of cool, clean water throughout the day, but especially when going to higher activity levels and while exercising. Don’t be surprised if they make many trips to the water bowl for long slurps of water; much of the water they drink evaporates off their tongue while panting so the extra water helps them regulate body temperature.

Lastly, reserve treats for special occasions and training rewards. Many treats are just empty calories that may interfere with the way they use the quality food you provide in their bowl. Make sure the treats you do give them are as good or of better quality than their normal food. You can also break larger treats into smaller pieces and give them out one at a time; your dog would rather you treat him five times with a bite-sized chunk than one time with a whole biscuit.

Remember, you hold the life and health of your dog in your hands. You must be the trainer, dietician, pack leader, and security blanket. If you exercise self-control for your dog, you will have a healthy companion for a long time.

Brock Lorber — investor, aviation coach, author, and dog lover — provides helpful tips for the care, feeding, and training of your dog.

You can subscribe to his newsletter at his website, MyOtherKids.com.

posted by admin on Sep 17

Over feeding and under feeding your dog poses a severe health risk for them and your wallet. Big or little, a five-pound swing in the weight of your dog represents a big change in their body mass and must be treated as a serious condition.

Your dog cannot control its appetite. He or she will eat until they are full; certain breeds (greyhounds, for example) don’t even have a mechanism to tell them when they are “full.” If you provide too much food for their body type, activity level, and age, they will store the extra calories in body fat. Too little food will cause their body to harvest the extra calories it needs from body fat if they are active and lean muscle if they are not.

If you cause your dog to become overweight – and, make no mistake, it is your fault, not theirs – the strain on their heart, immune system, and joints will result in additional veterinary bills and eventual loss of companionship from their early demise. To combat the curse of the obese canine, you must track their body weight, exercise, and food intake compulsively.

Start by developing a baseline: record your dog’s weight and your estimate of their overall “fitness” at least once a week, the weight and type of food they eat every day, and an honest daily assessment of exercise. Unless your vet has previously diagnosed an unhealthy condition in your dog, your estimate of your dog’s overall health is just as good as a professional opinion. If you have questions about what your dog should look like, many kennel clubs maintain online galleries of specific breeds that can aid your eye.

Regardless of your dog’s condition, make a firm commitment to dramatically increasing the exercise they get. Exercise is good for their heart and lungs and lets them develop strong, lean muscles. Dogs who receive plenty of exercise burn off a lot of nervous energy, making them better-behaved, and the extra exercise can help you shed a few extra pounds, too!

If you feel your dog is underweight, slightly increase the quantity of food they receive and immediately give them a dramatic increase in opportunities for exercise. The exercise will stimulate their appetite, add body mass as lean muscle, strengthen their joints, and teach their body to use more of the calories in the food they eat.

Overweight dogs can easily be stressed by too much change in their daily routine. Gradually decreasing their caloric intake and increasing their exercise will prevent injuries to joints and fragile bone structures. Longer periods of exercise at a moderate level are preferable to short periods of strenuous exercise in an overweight dog, so take them on a long daily walk instead of jogging them. As their heart and lungs gain increased capacity, the fat will melt off their bodies and new, lean muscle will appear to protect their joints.

Every dog needs plenty of cool, clean water throughout the day, but especially when going to higher activity levels and while exercising. Don’t be surprised if they make many trips to the water bowl for long slurps of water; much of the water they drink evaporates off their tongue while panting so the extra water helps them regulate body temperature.

Lastly, reserve treats for special occasions and training rewards. Many treats are just empty calories that may interfere with the way they use the quality food you provide in their bowl. Make sure the treats you do give them are as good or of better quality than their normal food. You can also break larger treats into smaller pieces and give them out one at a time; your dog would rather you treat him five times with a bite-sized chunk than one time with a whole biscuit.

Remember, you hold the life and health of your dog in your hands. You must be the trainer, dietician, pack leader, and security blanket. If you exercise self-control for your dog, you will have a healthy companion for a long time.

Brock Lorber — investor, aviation coach, author, and dog lover — provides helpful tips for the care, feeding, and training of your dog.

You can subscribe to his newsletter at his website, MyOtherKids.com.

posted by admin on Sep 17

I used to know a guy who would come up to me before a race, run his finger down his program and say, “You know who’s gonna win this race? I’ll tell you who’s gonna win this race.” Then he’d pause and look serious and say, “The 3 is gonna win. He’s a standout. A cinch. He’s so much better than the other dogs, they shouldn’t even be in the same race with him.” And then he’d go away and do the same thing with someone else.

I probably don’t have to tell you that his dogs almost never came in. That didn’t stop him from using his handicapping method, which I call “handicapping in a vacuum”, because he’d focus in on one dog and ignore the other 7, like it was the only dog in the race.

Sure, there are races where one dog stands out from the rest to the point where, at first glance, it looks – like the wiseguys say – as if he’s the only dog in the race. But take a second look and in most races, it’s not as simple as it seems to pick one standout dog. For one thing, no matter how good a dog looks in his 6 previous races, this is a whole ‘nother race.

Maybe he has great times. Maybe he always breaks first and is almost always “first to turn” (if you’re lucky enough to be able to tell that from your track’s program), but that doesn’t mean he’ll break first or get to the turn first in this race. The track might be slower or wet or just raked. He might not like the box he’s in. He might get blocked or shuffled back or cut off by another dog.

In every race, it’s my firm opinion that you have to handicap every dog against every other dog, not just for how good it was in its last 6 races. You have to figure out how this race is going to be run for pace, for running style of each dog and for conflicts of running style between the dogs. This is why I handicap “backwards”, so to speak, and try to eliminate at least half the dogs before I look for the strongest contender.

And, even then, I hardly ever play one dog to win. I almost always box four of them in a quiniela. If I’m ahead, I may get a little crazy and play them in a ten cent superfecta. About the only time I play a win bet is on one of the dogs that I follow closely and the older I get, the fewer of them I follow. It’s just too much to keep track of.

So look at the big picture in every race and don’t just focus on one dog, no matter how good it looks at first glance. Look again and make sure you don’t overlook the other dogs. No matter how much better one dog looks than the others, when the boxes open, every one of those eight dogs will come out determined to “catch the bunny” and none of them is out of the question until the race is official.

Improve your handicapping skills with free info, articles and Winning Greyhound Systems at http://ebnetr.com

posted by admin on Sep 16

Any dog track program will tell you how greyhounds are graded. Except for the highest and lowest grades, they move up when they win a race and – at most tracks – move down when they fail to finish in the top three positions in three consecutive starts or fail to earn better than one third place finish in four consecutive starts.

The rules for J and M may differ somewhat and, of course, dogs who win in the top grade can’t advance, but these are the basics of how dogs are graded. The reason they’re graded is so that dogs with similar abilities will be running with each other, instead of with dogs who are much better or much worse at winning.

That is, unless they’re in a “T” race. Many people don’t realize that “T” races aren’t special races in the way that Grade “S” or stakes races are. “T” races are set up by the racing secretary, which is interesting, I think. What’s more interesting is that “T” races may include any grade of dog. Think about it.

Instead of being drawn by slips from a hat or cup, the entries are hand-picked. The racing secretary decides – for whatever reason – that there needs to be a race with “special” situations in it and picks the dogs to create that situation. Now, I’m not accusing anyone of anything and as we all know, no matter how people try to influence the dogs, they have a way of surprising, but this sure looks like a chance to make money to me.

Of course, you have to figure out who or why the race was set up for. Is there a good dog in it that hasn’t been running well? Are there dogs from a kennel that isn’t making enough money to survive? Is there a dog with early speed between two slower starting dogs? You really need to examine the race and the entries with a fine-tooth comb to try to break the code, so to speak.

Once in a while, you’ll find a “T” race with a dog in it who is about to be graded off, but is in a favorable position in this “T” race. I’ve seen that happen more than once. I’ve also seen the dog still fail to come in, but I’ve also seen dogs surprise everyone and come in at long odds, beating dogs who looked much better but had difficult boxes or got bumped or blocked.

Sometimes, “T” races are just set up to let some dogs run that wouldn’t have been on the cards – sort of an extra race to tune them up for some reason. Don’t forget that the racing secretary and the dog people know things about their dogs that we don’t know and may have reasons we don’t know about for wanting dogs to race with certain other dogs.

One final note about “T” races. You can’t lean as heavily on class as you do in normal races. Class can be very deceiving in “T” races and so can speed. My advice is to lean more heavily on the angle of style and pace. Try to figure out who’s going to set the pace of the race and then figure out who’s going to run where. That done, look for the dogs with the most advantageous start and clear running room. That’s the way to win a “T” race.

To win money on “T” races and all the other grades, learn to handicap better and smarter with Winning Greyhound Systems at http://ebnetr.com

posted by admin on Sep 16

Pet shops can stock many types of collars and leads. Generally, your choice will depend on what you prefer, but there are a few points to take into consideration.

Leads (leashes), collars and harnesses are usually made from rope, leather, chain or nylon webbing.

Choosing Your Lead

Leather and Chain Leads: If you dog is one of the large breeds, you would be advised to select a strong lead made of leather or chain with a leather handle. Dogs that chew their leads will also benefit a chain lead.

Nylon leads: These are lightweight leads and usually washable, so they are useful to put in your pocket on a long walk or in case of an emergency.

Rope Leads: Slip leads (with a loop that goes around the dog’s neck) and showing leads are often made from soft rope.

Retractable leads: Some dogs need to be kept on their lead at all times e.g young or untrained dogs, deaf, blind or elderly dogs. Retractable leads are usually made from thin nylon rope or webbing on a spool that can extend 4 to 6 metres. This allows the dog to explore when out walking and allows you to keep control.

Choosing Your Collar

Leather collars: These are strong and durable and most dogs find them comfortable as they do not chafe the neck when fitted correctly. They are available in several styles – rolled, flat, studded etc. A leather collar 12mm wide is adequate for most dogs (larger breeds, bull terriers, greyhounds etc may need a wider collar – 2.5 to 4cm is usually suitable)

Nylon Collars: Smaller breeds are more suited to nylon collars as they are less durable than leather. They can also cause rubbing on the neck, especially if the dog pulls on the lead.

Chain Collars: These are made from several rows of chain with a buckle and leather strap. Care should be taken to use the correct size as they may pinch the skin of the dog’s neck if too narrow.

Check Chains (Choke Chain): I advise against using a check chain unless absolutely necessary as very few people know how to fit and use them correctly. Half-check collars (a nylon band with a chain attached) are minimally better. They are a training aid only and should only be used when walking or training.

Puppy’s First Collar and Lead Arrived at that momentous time when you buy your puppy’s first collar and lead? Here are some safety points to remember:-

• Do not fasten the collar too tightly – make sure you can fit three fingers under it.
• Never use a check chain on a young puppy – they can damage the pup’s neck.
• Keep an eye on your puppy especially at first as sometimes they try and rub the collar off and can get it caught on anything projecting.
• Even when the puppy is very young, its a good idea to attach the lead to the collar and make it into a game – the puppy will get used to the feel of the lead and it will be easier for you when the time comes to start training.

Finally, remember to check your dog’s collar and lead regularly for damaged stitching or wear and replace it before it breaks.

Trish, a registered RCVS Veterinary Nurse, was in practice for many years and now runs Lets Talk About Pets community blog and Pet Talk newsletter for pet owners and also supplies ethical pet supplies

http://www.alphapets.weblodge.net

To subscribe to Lets Talk About Pets & Pet Talk http://www.yourspecialinterest.com/alphapets/optin.htm

Visit Lets Talk About Pets community blog http://www.alphapetblog.blogspot.com

posted by admin on Sep 15

We’ve all seen stray dogs roaming the street looking scared, hungry, and frazzled. It tears your heart out. It always makes me wonder how they ended up that way.
Some slightly luckier strays might end up in shelters or getting rescued by a compassionate person. Not all dogs end up in shelters because they were
necessarily “bad” or had behavioral problems. A lot of them end up in shelters because people buy dogs without considering the effort and expense of dog
ownership. Some end up there because an owner dies or goes into a nursing home. Some are also are either given or simply dropped off there because of
divorces and neither person wants or can care for the dog by themselves. But there’s many dogs end up discarded because they were used by breeders or puppy mills
as sort of breeding machines. Then when they no longer serve that purpose, they are given up

Rescued dogs who have been neglected or abandoned need training and gentle to be a good member of your household. However, they most likely will need less training than a puppy would. People don’t know that a good percentage of rescue dogs aren’t just mutts, but come from breeders (as mentioned earlier) or pet stores, and are pedigrees. Either way rescued dogs can make great pets and can, with your compassion and patience adapt to your lifestyle and family members. You`ll then be rewarded with their loyalty and affection. An abandoned dog is usually eager to become part of a loving pack where they feel safe and loved – since they are by nature pack animals. Many who adopt these rescued dogs describe their new family members as eager to please and form strong bonds with their human “pack”.

Should you go to a shelter or rescue society (usually for a specific breed such as greyhounds), there’s usually a fee which covers a medical exam, spaying or neutering, and any necessary shots. It also contributes to the cause of the shelter which is after all to keep doing what they do. You will likely meet with a volunteer worker at the shelter so you can meet the dog before you adopt and to see if it`s a good match. If the dog chooses you too with a loving gaze, then that`s a good sign that you’ve been approved to receive their friendship hopefully for many years to come.

Louise Green is a freelance writer and researcher. Her compassion toward animals in dire need led to researching this topic of concern. She has put together a web site that provides updated information on pet rescues and also resources for providing quality nutrition, toys, and free tips on dog training. You can visit her site atwww.dogandcatcentral.info

posted by admin on Sep 14

My Italian Greyhound is truly the best friend (no, more like a child) of my husband and I. Her name is Wendy. She’s absolutely a beautiful specimen of an Italian Greyhound – with her sleek body, her tucked tummy, her champion like posture and whimsical gallop. Wendy is now 4.5 years old and her life has been one long terrible journey.

When we first adopted Wendy – she was a tiny fawn puppy with large black eyes. You couldn’t even tell if she was looking at us because her pupils and eye color had not developed yet. She was very fuzzy for an Italian Greyhound puppy. She had remnant milk breath and wagged her tail in play.

Unfortunately, a few weeks after we adopted her, she threw up. It was a small projectile like vomit while my husband was holding her. We did not think anything of it because puppies will throw up sometimes. She was on a strictly “puppy” food diet, her stools were normal and her urine was normal. She was eating and drinking normally and behaving normally.

Approximately a month later, things started to change with Wendy. She became less active. She laid down all the time. She didn’t want to engage in typical “puppy” play – or if she did, she didn’t last more than a few minutes before she wanted to lay down. We didn’t know any better and thought maybe she was just a “quiet” puppy or had more of a “serious” temperament than our other Italian Greyhound.

We soon began to notice that she was not eating as much. It was time to go to the vet. The vet told us that her weight was fine and she looked fine. We told the vet that her appetite had greatly decreased, but he told us to give her some chicken soup and rice. We tried, and she did eat some of it, but within a day she stopped eating. We took her back and the vet told us to just keep trying. We tried for another night and she refused to eat. At this point she also stopped ALL physical activity. She didn’t get up! She didn’t walk, she didn’t do anything. She just was looking around her while she was laying down.

We brought her back to the vet again, this time my husband was furious. The vets’ office had at least 5 vets working in it. He demanded to see a vet and NOT the same one who had been treating Wendy. He told the new vet Wendy’s history and he demanded that something be done about her quickly deteriorating condition. The vet told my husband he thought she had a food allergy and prescribed Hill’s C/D. Well, luckily – this did help her come back to life. Later, I learned that Hill’s C/D is a low protein food and it was the high protein in her puppy food that was killing Wendy.

Wendy did fine on this food. I kept bringing her to the vet at least once a month for colds, fevers and strange behavior. She constantly urinated all over the place. She never had a good appetite and never drank a lot. She was still a “quiet” dog, but she grew older and we moved to a different town. She became an adult and we took her off of the Hill’s C/D. She immediately started to develop crystals in her urine. Italian Greyhounds do not like to urinate outdoors, so we always made it a point to use pee pads in a basement or garage area. Fortunately, as a youngster, Wendy didn’t always quite make it to the pad and I was able to see the crystals on the floor!!!

I took her to the vet specifically to address the crystals in her urine. The vet ran some blood tests and told me that her BUN count was a little low (and maybe her creatin too – I can’t quite remember the creatin reading). I researched this on the net (which was still developing at the time) and found information about liver shunts. Liver shunts are often congenital defects that occur in puppies/dogs and these affected dogs typically have low BUN, low creatin and ammonium crystals in their urine! I brought it up to the vet – she said “no” and “that’s not it”. She told us it was just the food allergy that our earlier vets had diagnosed. I truly believed my vet – SHE was the EXPERT. I completely put the idea of a liver shunt OUT OF MY MIND.

Every time I brought Wendy to the vet, I kept asking each vet if they thought Wendy was too skinny. They all told me that she was just petite and that she looked normal. Again, I had instinctual doubts but believed the EXPERTS.

If I had only known then what I know now. After 3.5 years of going through hell bringing Wendy to tons of vets and ER vets – I finally found an ER vet who actually took the time to listen to Wendy’s full history and my concerns. He said the magic words “I think she might have a liver shunt, you should get a bile acid test done on her”.

Here are the symptoms of liver shunts:

1. Poor Doer: A puppy/dog that is always getting sick. Because liver shunts cause toxicity in the blood because the dog is not having its blood filtered by the liver. This causes various illnesses to occur often.

2. UTIs: A puppy/dog that has frequent urinary tract infections or looks like it is having a urinary tract infection due to having many accidents all over the house, isn’t able to be housebroken or urinating small amounts.

3. BAD ODOR: A puppy/dog that has bad mouth odor and/or bad urine odor. Often, the urine is also a darker color yellow instead of the “barely” yellow of normal healthy urine. (Note: Puppy and young dogs should have good breath. Bad breath is a RED FLAG that something isn’t right)

4. Head Pressing: Dogs with liver shunts don’t filter their blood which results in ammonia build up in the blood. Ammonia toxicity causes their heads to feel funny – so they rub their heads a lot.

5. CRYSTALS IN URINE: This is from the excess ammonia in their system. Any dog with crystals in the urine should have a bile acid test.

6. Complete Blood Count (CBC): This test is easily given in the vet’s office. Liver shunt dogs often have a lower than normal BUN and Creatin count.

7. Depression: Liver shunt dogs are not very active or they may be active for very short periods of time. They are known as “quiet” puppies or “quiet” dogs. A “quiet” puppy usually isn’t very normal and all “quiet” puppies should have a bile acid test to make sure they are okay.

8. Low Weight: Puppies with liver shunts look normal with a milk belly, etc. As they grow into dogs it is obvious they are too skinny. Their ribs show, their bones are prominant and they don’t develop muscle mass. Not all liver shunt dogs have low weight though, but many do. They tend to have low weight because their liver cannot absorb and process nutrients to bring these liver shunt dogs to their normal weight.

9. Small: Dogs with liver shunts often do not grow as much as their siblings. They have smaller than normal livers and sometimes smaller than normal features. Wendy never developed the strong leg muscles that all greyhound breeds exhibit.

10. Anorexia: Many liver shunt puppies/dogs do not eat normally. They eat very little dog food. They may chow down on a newly introduced canned food or people food – but they invariably resort back to not eating very much. Eating food makes them not feel well because of the higher toxicity they have after a meal – so they tend to shun food.

11. Breed: Any breed can have a liver shunt, but Yorkshire Terriers are famous for having them.

Here is my advice to anyone who has a dog with these symptoms:

FORCE YOUR VET TO DO A BILE ACID TEST IF YOU SUSPECT A LIVER SHUNT AND/OR YOUR DOG IS EXHIBITING SOME OF THE ABOVE SYMPTOMS!!!! Don’t take “no” for an answer. Tell them you want to MAKE SURE and cover all of your bases. A bile acid test is about $100.00 and can save your dog’s life.

Once your dog has been diagnosed with a liver shunt, you can then begin the process of determining treatment. In the meantime, ask the vet for Lactulose which may cause diarrhea at first but will immediately help to greatly detoxify your dog. Also, immediately put your dog on Hill’s L/D diet which is low protein. Do not give your dog any people food that has protein! Protein promotes toxicity in liver shunt dogs.

There are several treatment options. You may want to have a scintigraphy done to find out if the shunt is intrahepatic or extrahepatic. Usually the liver shunt is extrahepatic (outside the liver) which is easily operable. Intrahepatic shunts (inside the liver) are much more difficult to operate on and are usually found in larger breed dogs. Your vet can recommend whether to operate or not. Usually, it is recommended to medically manage your dog rather than operate with intrahepatic shunts.

Surgery: One of the best and cheapest places to have the surgery performed is at the University of Tennessee at Knoxville, TN. And I do mean the BEST and the cheapest. They specialize in liver shunt surgery. I wouldn’t have trusted Wendy to any other surgeon for treatment. In addition, UTK utilizes a surgical method for extrahepatic shunts that cannot be surpassed by mere ligation.

Puppies in in the uterous of their momma dog get nutrients from momma through a portal vein. At birth, this vein is supposed to close up. In liver shunt dogs, it doesn’t close up. Instead, this portal vein acts as a “bypass” and most of the blood bypasses the liver. The liver is what cleans the blood. The liver also performs thousands of other vital functions!!! 94% of Wendy’s blood bypassed her liver!!!

The classical surgical method has been to ligate the portal vein (close it off, shut it down, get rid of it….). Unfortunately, the ligation method can throw the body into shock and kill the dog because there is a halt to the circulatory system! UTK developed a much better and much safer method. A metal ring is coated with a substance that expands upon contact with moisture. It expands SLOWLY (it takes a month or so for it to fully expand). This ring, called an ameroid constrictor, is placed AROUND the portal vein. The ameroid constrictor closes slowly over time until the vein is closed. This not only helps the body from going into shock, but it also helps to prevent infection that is caused by ligation! The liver is able to slowly accept more and more blood as the constrictor does its job. There is no shock to the liver or the circulatory system.

I HIGHLY recommend the surgery with an ameroid constrictor – you can research all of this on the net to make your decision. The UTK program includes a scinitigraphy to locate the shunt, surgery, hospital stay, AND A BIOPSY OF THE LIVER for about $1,600 (2007). They do a great job!

What to Expect Post Op: Your dog will be in some pain for a few days after the surgery. Fortunately, there is not a lot of pain because the only cutting involved is the skin on the belly and for the biopsy. There is usually no cutting done for placing the ameroid constrictor.

Over the next 4 months, you will notice the following: weight gain, muscle development, loss of puppy fur (if your dog retained its puppy fur), improvement in general appearance (shinier), LOTS more ENERGY and no more head rubbing.

At 4 months, you will need to redo the bile acid test to check on how the ameroid constrictor is operating. Wendy had 0s on her follow up bile acid test!!! After 4 months, if the bile acid test comes back normal, you can put your dog back on regular food!!!!

I can’t tell you how glad I was that I was able to have Wendy surgically corrected.

posted by admin on Sep 13

There are many dogs whose eyes are particularly sensitive to sunlight. To comfort themselves against the bright light, your dog may squint, whine, or even paw at its face. Some people consider sunglasses for canines a cute fashion statement but they are much more than that. A pair of pet dog goggles to block out UV light may help your canine feel more comfortable outdoors.

Humans are prone to eye diseases like macular degeneration, cataracts and photokeratitis, and so are dogs. In addition, certain breeds can suffer from a condition called “pannus,” which is also known as chronic superficial keratitis or inflammation of the corneas. It is primarily found in the German Shepard breed, although other predisposed breeds include Greyhounds, Huskies and Dachshunds. Other breeds reported to have problems with pannus include Poodles, Border Collies and Labrador Retrievers.

Pannus can be caused by prolonged and repeated exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays, which hit the eyes of both human and animal whether the sun is shining high in the sky or whether the day is cloudy. Ultraviolet light, high altitudes and low altitudes create the greatest risks.

It is not just ultraviolet radiation that can damage our four-legged friends’ vision. Does your dog ride with its head out the car window, spend time on the bright beach or in reflective bright snow, or maybe run through brush? Pet dog goggles that function as sunglasses for dogs can also help protect them from airborne debris and wind.

New and improved dog goggle eye protection for your pet is available, the same eyewear that has been seen on CNN, Regis and Kelly, National Geographic, Animal Planet, and in People and Woman’s World magazines. After eight years of designing and manufacturing eyewear for dogs, pet dog goggles have come a long way in quality and function. Redesigned dog goggles have an interchangeable lens system that offers a deeper lens cup, very flexible frames, and wider nose bridge. The ILS was designed from the beginning to be lighter and more comfortable for dogs.

Pet goggles for dogs offer 100% UV protection, and shatterproof, anti-fog lenses facilitated by side air vents; a very flexible, wrap around foam padded frame; interchangeable capable lenses; two adjustable soft elastic head and chin straps; for complete and beneficial dog goggle eye protection for your pet.

Sunscreen for your dogs!

And, yes, many dogs can benefit from sunscreen. Why put human sunscreen on your dog when you can use a formula designed specifically for a dog’s skin? Does your dog have light colored skin or a pink nose? Your dog needs sunscreen! Dogs have more sensitive skin than humans and thus do better with their own sunscreen. Sunscreen for pets also helps with coat condition and to prevent sun bleaching in dark haired dogs.

For a selection of Pet Dog Googles and Dog Sunscreen CLICK HERE.

We have existed as a company since 1985, but it was a love of dogs, the dogs that have been a part of our life, and the passing of one dog in particular, Rusty, that inspired the creation of http://www.CalloftheDog.com and http://www.CalloftheDogShop.com — created to provide the things your dogs and pets need. Visit us for great information and quality dog supplies! Be sure to see our About Us page as well.

The two sites are dedicated to the dogs we have loved so deeply, and who have given us so much love in return. Purebreds and mixed breeds, but mostly rescues in need of a home. We educated them, but each one has had something to teach us in exchange.

posted by admin on Sep 12

1. All dogs, from the German Shepherd to the Poodle, are direct descendants of wolves. They can all breed together and produce fertile offspring. Technically they are of the same species.
2. The oldest reliable age recorded for a dog is 29 years, 5 months for a Queensland Blue Heeler called Bluey in Victoria, Australia. The average dog lives to around 15 years of age.
3. Dogs naturally have a wonderful sense of smell. They have many more sensory ‘smelling’ cells than a man’s 5,000,000. A Dachshund has 125,000,000, a Fox Terrier 147,000,000 and an Alsation has 220,000,000.
4. Newfoundland’s are great swimmers and divers because they have webbed feet. Bassets can’t swim.
5. Alaskan malamutes ears face backwards when running. This was so they could hear the commands of their master while running with a sleigh.
6. There are two dogs that do not bark. They are the Basenji and the Australian Dingo (or native dog).
7. Dog’s nose prints are as unique as a human’s finger prints and can be used to accurately identify them.
8. Dogs have twice as many muscles for moving their ears as people.
9. Dogs’ only sweat glands are between their paw pads.
10. Only dogs and humans have prostates.
11. Some dogs lick their paws and then rub their paws on their head to clean themselves, much like a cat.
12. Obesity is the #1 health problem among dogs.
13. Greyhounds are the fastest dogs on earth, with speeds of up to 45 miles per hour.
14. When a dog bays at the moon, it is following a basic urge to call the pack together.
15. Three dogs survived the sinking of the Titanic – a Newfoundland, a Pomeranian, and a Pekingese .
16. Dogs prefer to play keep-away rather than fetch.
17. Most dogs really don’t like to play dress up.
18. Dogs don’t understand pointing. They focus on the tip of your finger, not the item you are pointing at.
19. Female dog bites are twice as numerous as male dog bites.
20. The bible mentions dogs 14 times.

Di Ellis is an avid dog lover, and co-author of the site BestDoggieTips.com where you can get loads of useful tips and information about our four legged friends including free recipes, dog cartoons (updated weekly) and links to the best free dog stuff on the Net. And when you sign up for our free newsletter, we’ll send you a copy of our Dog Recipe Book.